FEARFUL DOGS:
Fear comes in all shapes and sizes, especially for your furry,
four-pawed friend. Whether in response to a stranger or startling noise,
your dog may display certain body postures, including lowering his head,
flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between
his legs if he's scared.
A frightened dog may also pant, salivate, tremble, pace, or try to
escape. He may show submissive behaviors like avoiding eye contact,
urinating submissively, or rolling over to expose his belly or he may
freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the
object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog
may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape),
or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels.
Causes of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful is helpful but not always essential
to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will
dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog who is genetically
predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog who was improperly
socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not
respond as well to treatment as a dog who has developed a specific fear
in response to a specific experience. It's essential, however, to first
rule out any medical causes for your dog's fearful behavior. Your first
step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough
medical evaluation.
What You Can Do
Most fears won't go away by themselves, and, if left untreated, may get
worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency
but may not disappear entirely. After you've ruled out medical causes,
your first step in dealing with your dog's fearful behavior is to
identify what triggers his fear. Is he afraid of startling noises? Is he
afraid of being left alone? Most fears can be treated using
desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques, which require a lot
of time and patience. You may need help from a professional
animal-behavior specialist to help you with these techniques.
How to Use the Desensitization Technique
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of
whatever it is that's causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of
bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from
your dog.
Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the
bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog
remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he
becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower
pace.
When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary
bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but have someone ride it
slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly
moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed.
Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing
the speed of the moving bicycle.
This process may take several days, weeks, or even months. You must
proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during
the desensitization process. If you move too quickly you won't be
successful.
How to Use the Counter Conditioning Technique
Counter conditioning works best when used in conjunction with
desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus (for example, a
moving bicycle) with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear
behavior (for example, the dog remaining in the "sit" position).
Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while
your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience
exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue
to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn't know any commands, teach him a few using treats and
praise. Don't ever use punishment, collar corrections, or scolding to
teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him
to associate pleasant things with the stimulus that now frightens him.
Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce
and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he
may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as
smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in natural light.
During the desensitization process, it is impossible for you to
reproduce all of these factors. Another example would be if your dog is
afraid of men. You may work at desensitizing him, but if a man lives in
your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can
disrupt the gradual process of desensitization. You need to be patient
with your dog and work hard not to become frustrated during the
desensitization process.
When to Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult
techniques to master, and because behavior problems may increase if
these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional,
in-home help from an animal-behavior specialist. It's important to keep
in mind that a fearful dog who feels trapped or is pushed too far may
become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is
that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such
as growling, snarling, snapping, or baring his teeth, stop all behavior
modification procedures and seek professional help from an
animal-behavior specialist as soon as possible.
Consult with Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available which can help reduce your dog's anxiety
levels for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who
is qualified and licensed to prescribe medication for your dog. Don't
attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication
without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don't respond to
drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for
humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won't reduce fears
and phobias permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and
medication used together may be the best approach.
What Not to Do
Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him
more fearful. Do not try to force your dog to experience the object or
situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid
of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by,
he'll probably become more fearful of bicycles rather than less fearful.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling
caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don't understand punishment after the
fact, even if it's only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house
soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more
harm than good.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the
Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.
If you have questions or need our services, please contact the shelter
at
618.346.5213 or contact us today via
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Copyrights 2009 WARREN BILLHARTZ ANIMAL SHELTER OF
COLLINSVILLE. A KTLLC Communications Solution